The tradition of weaving in Banaras is believed to have started around the 2nd or 3rd century BCE, with references in ancient Hindu scriptures like the Rigveda and Buddhist Jataka tales. Banaras was an important centre for textile production during the Maurya and Gupta period (4th–6th century), where silk weaving flourished. During the early medieval period, the city became known for its cotton textiles, which were traded across South Asia.

Mughal Influence (16th–18th Century)

The golden era of Banarasi textiles began under Mughal rule (16th century), especially during the reign of Emperor Akbar’s patronage. Persian and Mughal aesthetics influenced the designs, introducing floral motifs (shikargah), paisleys, and intricate jali (net) patterns. It was in the 14th century that Banaras weavers made their mark by crafting intricate silk brocades adorned with silver and gold zari threads. The appreciation for the Banarasi weave grew significantly, with its craftsmanship reaching new heights and making the fabric luxurious and sought after by the royalty and nobility, during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Mughal Royalty and Banarasi Silk

Mughal emperors wore Banarasi textiles, particularly in robes, turbans, and shawls, also in lots of Mughal paintings seen that Mughal queens and noblewomen adorned themselves with luxurious Banarasi silk sarees and odhnis, often incorporating fine gold embroidery. Apparently, Mughal Poshak were deeply reflected in Banarasi motifs. The designs were inspired by Persian and Indian art, incorporating elements from nature, architecture, Buta & Butidar Designs and royal insignias.

• Jama (long robe): Made of fine silk with intricate gold zari work.
• Angarkha: A fitted upper garment with rich brocade fabric.
• Pagri (Turban): Woven with gold and silver zari, sometimes decorated with pearls and gemstones.
• Odhnis & Dopatta : Heavily embroidered with floral and paisley motifs.